Road Trip in Cap Corse

March 18, 2022

There is Corsica and then there is Cape Town. The island within the island.

Far from the effervescence of the southern beaches, Cap Corse has everything from paradise for the traveler in search of nature and authenticity.
A real jewel with winding coasts, nibbled by the raging waves, a wild and preserved paradise, we love its centuries-old villages perched in the mountains, its American houses overlooking the sea, its small characterful fishing ports, its steep cliffs plunging in the Mediterranean, its vines, its slopes where citron, myrtle and orange trees bloom, and its Genoese towers which dot the territory (there are 32 in Cape Town alone).

This year, we're taking you on a road trip to Cap Corse to discover our

New Spring Summer 2022 collection

( Discover our film Road Trip in Cap Corse )

Erbalunga
Let's leave Bastia in the direction of the North, from the first minutes, gaze immersed in the big blue, the wonder is total. After 10 kilometres, Erbalunga, the port village with superb 19th century villas, is bordered by translucent water which makes the old stones of the imposing Genoese tower, listed as historical monuments, sparkle. After a walk in the alleys, we stop for lunch on the village square and its century-old palm trees.

Convent of Pozzo
This former home of Capuchin monks is an authentic 15th century building. Right in the middle of the mountains and the Corsican maquis, this idyllic place belongs to Emmanuelle Picon, happy heiress who knew how to preserve her monastic soul there while infusing it with the right touch of comfort. The garden opens onto a cobalt pool facing the Tyrrhenian Sea and its islands that stretch out into the distance. The view is breathtaking.

As if suspended in time, we live there to the sound of bells and birdsong. The meals are organized around large tables, lit in the evening by candlelight, and which allow you to (re)discover the local cuisine: stuffed zucchini flowers, anchovies à la Bastia, fiadone… We stayed there for the duration of the shoot. and we must admit that it was difficult to leave.

Morsiglia pass

On the road along the coast towards Macinaggio, we stop to swim on the flat rocks below a small steep path well hidden by the maquis. The rocks are drawn by the waves. We are alone in the world, with this delicious feeling of having explored a place that only a few insiders know. Many thanks to Martine for sharing this gem.

In Meria, we take the cross road to the Morsiglia pass. The walk allows you to appreciate the colors and scents of the Corsican maquis. Arbutus, rosemary, myrtle, cistus, broom, lavender, musk, thyme, morisia, euphorbia and other violets cover a magical landscape. We pass a herd of goats before arriving at the pass where the view is simply breathtaking.

Photo break in front of Notre Dame des Grâces, a magnificent abandoned chapel, before descending on the other side of the Cap.

Scalo Navy

At sunset, we have an appointment at Pino in the Scalo marina at the "U Paradu" refreshment bar. Louisette, 88, has been running this place for over forty years. She is an emblematic figure of the village, known for her assertive personality and her kindness, but also for her bagnat breads reputed to be the best in Corsica. In summer, tourists anchor to come and taste its sandwiches. The atmosphere is joyful and friendly, the view breathtaking.

Nonza Black Beach

Impossible to miss Nonza, a perched village and its huge black sand beach, located below (500 steps separate them). Nonza beach is a curiosity there whose exoticism rivals that of the black beaches of the island of Saint-Vincent, a mecca for ultra-luxury yachting in the heart of the Caribbean . We couldn't resist the joy of writing Apnée using white pebbles and then climbing to the top of the cliff to contemplate our work :)

Beach of Nonza Corsica

At the foot of the church of Santa Giulia, we had lunch at the café de la Tour. The Corsican charcuterie and cheese platters are delicious. Don't leave without having robbed the stock of pear and timut pepper jam made by the owner (I jealously guard my last jar because I know that if I open it, it won't last 2 hours).

Centuri

After an obligatory stop in Ersa, at the Mattei mill, emblem of the famous brand of cooked wine nestled at an altitude of some 400 meters, we continue the trip to Centuri. More touristy than its neighbours, the small bay, which has 217 inhabitants all year round, seduces with its colorful houses, its picturesque port and its local speciality: lobster, offered from April to September in all the restaurants of the city. Special mention to the Vieux Moulin, a family establishment since 1961, awarded a Michelin plate for the freshness and quality of its products.

While writing this article, nostalgia takes hold of me and I'm dying to go back there very soon.

Getting There

Arrival in Bastia by boat or plane
Taxi Martine Saladini Tel. 06 20 73 52 09. In love with Cap Corse, Martine will help you discover it in the most beautiful way.
Corsica Motorcycle Rental , Port Toga, 20200 Bastia. Tee l. 06 09 89 25 08. To tour Cap Corse by motorbike.

Where to stay

Convent of Pozzo , route du Convent, 20222 Brando. Such. 04 95 60 39 11. Guest house in a former 15th century convent. If you like air-conditioned rooms, king size beds and 24-hour service, you better go your way. This place is atypical and deserves.
Castel Brando , 20222 Brando. Such. 04 95 30 10 30. 1850s mansion with elegant rooms and attentive service.
Hotel Misincu , Lieu-dit, 20228 Cagnano. Such. : 04 95 35 21 21. Well known to the jet set in the 1970s, this mythical address (formerly called Le Caribou) was frequented by Alain Delon, Romy Schneider and Serge Gainsbourg. You will find our swimsuits and beachwear pieces this summer :)
Palazzu Nicrosi , Place called Vignale, 20247 Rogliano. American house, in the heart of an authentic and preserved environment. Owned by the same family since 1877, Paul and Aline Saladini have created in this intimate place steeped in history, a charming residence with five bedrooms and suites.

Restaurants

Restaurant Le Pirate , The Port, 2022 Erbalunga. Such. : 04 95 33 24 20. Gourmet restaurant suspended above the small port, to savor seafood with the postcard landscape
U Paradu , 20228 Pino. The best bagnat breads in Corsica at sunset.
La Sassa , 20217 Nonza. Such. 04 95 38 55 26. Extraordinary spot, at the foot of the Paoline tower, with a breathtaking view of the sea which offers cocktails, Mediterranean dishes and live concerts. It is not uncommon to come across Mathieu Chedid, who is one of the regulars.
Café de la Tour , Place de la Fontaine 20217 Nonza. Such. 04 20 04 25 89. At the foot of the Santa Giulia church, refreshment stop and tasting of delicious platters of Corsican charcuterie and cheese.
The Old Mill , 20238 Centuri. Such. 04 95 35 60 15. The address to enjoy a good dish of lobster pasta.